I designed this skirt while ago and made it up using a plain a-line skirt pattern as my template. I modified the pattern to form the ‘wave’ like motif constructed from panels.

To make the pattern I used the following process –
1. I traced off the skirt front. I used a flat front a-line skirt pattern, but it could also be done with a pencil/straight skirt. It will be easiest with a front piece with no darts, and either a waistband or facing.
2. On the traced copy, I drew on where I wanted the final seam lines of the panels to be. I’m sure there is a mathematical formula for the perfect curve but I just drew this by eye and tried to make sure it looked balanced.
3. I cut along the lines marked in step 2.
4. I traced off the new panel pieces and labelled them 1-4 fromt top to bottom piece.
5. I added seam allowances to all the new pattern pieces.

To make the piece up I assembled the front skirt piece first so it was possible to treat is as one piece when constructing the rest of the garment. Using the principle of stitching a princess seam I carried out the following process –
1. I stay stitched all the curved edges 2mm inside the seamlines.
2. I clipped the seam allowance for panel 4 and pinned it the lower seam allowance of panel 3, being careful to distribute any ease in the curves.
3. I hand tacked the two panels together, then finger pressed the seam open. I then clipped the seam allowance of panel.
4. I machine stitched the two panels together, and repeated this process for the test of the panels.
5. I constructed the skirt as I would normally.

The result
I’m pretty happy with this skirt, though it is not without its faults.
The fabric is a twill weave and I cut the panels so that the diagonal ridges ran the opposite way on alternate panels. While this highlights the panels nicely in a subtle way, I have a feeling it.s the cause of the puckering at the panel seams. If i made it again in a similar fabric I would probably not do this.

I tried a hand picked, lapped zipper, as my current favourite way to put in zips, but the heavy fabric showed my stitches too much so I topstiched the zip in which I originally didn’t want to do.

However, given that hand stitching caused the fabric to ripple too much, there was no possibility of hand finishing the hem, so in the end I was not too bothered about the top stitched zip (though next time I probably would use an invisible zip).

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