This is the first time I’ve worked with silk dupion/dupioni. It’s been a learning experience so I’ve put together this list of pointers:

  • Use a fine needle, I’ve been using a 70/09, but could go finer
  • Tack (baste) all work before machine stitching. Dupion marks easily so it’s best not to have to rip out stitches
  • It frays a lot. Finish the edges quickly. I used a zigzag stitch which wasn’t ideal, as it tunnelled (I’m keen to get hold of an overlock foot to remedy this), and that made working out the seam allowance dependent on the staystiching line, which is ok, but not as easy as working to the edge of the fabric
  • The dupion I’m working with has one side slightly smoother than the other (the slub is more bobbly on one side if that makes sense). Observe and match all pieces with which ever side you prefer
  • Use a relatively cool iron, set to the silk setting, and do not use any steam (I drained my iron to make sure no water made contact with the fabric).
  • To pre wash or not to pre wash? I could photograph my samples, but the differences would probably not show up that clearly. With Catherine’s dress fabric the difference was quite obvious. The washed sample is rougher, has lost some of it’s shine, and the colour has lost some depth. Catherine and I discussed this and decided not to pre wash the fabric as the dress, if worn again, will be worn infrequently enough to dry clean only.
  • Check your tension and make sure it’s correct. Althought the fabric is relatively stable
  • Moisturise your hands (obviously not immediately before handling fabric, but inbetween will help). The fabric catches easily and it can feel like your damaging it just by touching it.

Overall it’s a nice fabric to work with. Although it feels like it will hold quite a structural shape, it is relatively lightweight and will need an underlining for a bodice in formal wear. Dupion’s scrunchy texture brings out the colour and shine of the fabric beautifully, and it comes in all sorts of jewel, and more muted tones. I think it’s probably a good option for first time sewing with silk.