Construction

I followed a pretty standard shirt construction order;

  • stitched darts
  • constructed sleeve plackets
  • attached yoke to fronts and back
  • attached sleeves using flat felled seam – have been using 1cm seam allowance, was very fiddly for this particular feature so in future will need more here
  • sewed up sides and down sleeves using French seams (wrong sides together, stitch, press, trim, turn, then right sides together, stitch catching raw edge inside seam)
  • constructed concealed button placket (might write up later)
  • sewed buttonholes
  • constructed and attached collar – I managed to construct the collar the wrong way round making attaching it tricky but not impossible. Would also look at seam allowances here
  • constructed and attached cuffs
  • stitched on buttons using machine, taping button down with sellotape to keep steady (love this, it’s super fast)
  • hemmed by pinning up, stitching, then same again to hide raw edges

Notes on the block

I felt the upper back was very large on Winifred Aldrich’s men’s tailored shirt block – I had to reduce it by around 3cm after making the toile. However, I feel the ease allowance is very generous across the board within the Metric Pattern Cutting series of books (in the blocks I have used anyway). I have adjusted the ease I allow for the womenswear blocks but will have to work on more menswear to work out if it requires similar.

Looks a bit shiny from the flash – isn’t in real life.

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